Showing posts with label Prague. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Prague. Show all posts

12.11.2010

Finding your own way to get lost

The rush of adrenaline hits your senses. The anticipation of the possibility of discovering something you’ve never seen before, mixed with the anxiety of not knowing what lays around the corner creates a unique rush.

But getting lost while traveling is something that, ironically, requires planning ... and an awareness and concern for your own safety.

The New York Times’ former “Frugal Traveler,” Matt Gross, a few months ago launched a new series dubbed “Getting Lost.” Gross chronicles his attempts to get lost while traveling. His first stop was Morocco, second was Ireland.

“I’ve lately been wondering, how does it feel truly not to know where you are? Are the guidebooks, GPS devices and Internet forums pointing us in the wrong direction? In our efforts to figure out where we’re going, have we lost something more important?

“Hence this new series, ‘Getting Lost,’ in which every few months I will try to lose my way all over the globe, from developing-world megalopolises to European capitals, from American sprawl to Asian archipelagos. (For the moment, I’ll avoid deep wilderness and deserts; I want to survive.) It’s a challenge that requires special preparation — that is, nonpreparation. In the past, I’ve researched destinations to death, zooming deep into Google Maps and uncovering unusual restaurants in the darkest corners of the Web. Now I am avoiding maps. I am shying away from Chowhound and Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum; I will not ask my Facebook friends who they know in Moscow or Addis Ababa.

“I am, in short, trying to break free of the constraints of modern travel, of a culture in which every minute is rigorously planned, and we grade destinations based on how they live up to our expectations. I want to have no expectations. I plan to show up with neither hotel reservation nor guidebook; instead of devising my own itinerary, I will let the place itself guide me, and in doing so, I will, I hope, find myself caught up in moments I never could have imagined,” Gross writes.

Sure it sounds glamorous and exciting — coming to a place without any plans in hand. Aimlessly exploring your surroundings and stumbling upon hidden gems. Yeah it’s great, if the NY Times is paying you big bucks to write about it.

But what about for all of us other travelers who aren’t getting big paychecks to travel. Who simply do it because we love it and who don’t have the kind of cash to throw down for a flight at the last minute or a hotel room that will cost double or triple because we didn’t have a reservation.

Prague was beautiful at the turn of any and every corner
I’m not saying that it’s necessary to plan out every detail of your itinerary. Some of my best travel experiences came by wandering around and letting my instincts guide which way I turned at the next corner. Wandering rather aimlessly through the streets of Prague allowed me to see much more of that beautiful city than I would have had I stuck to the main streets and mapped out every step.

However, that was Prague; not Morocco. Depending on where you’re traveling, safety becomes a greater concern. Well, safety’s always a concern, especially for a female solo traveler, but walking around, say, London after sunset is far less dangerous (depending on what neighborhood you’re in, of course) than generally wandering around Morocco by yourself at night. That sentiment also was expressed in a response letter to Gross’ first “Getting Lost” column.

“In ‘Lost in Tangier,’ Matt Gross romanticizes ‘getting lost’ in Tangier’s medina. He makes the journey seem eminently doable for a solo traveler. He fails to mention that this may be much more difficult for a woman traveling alone. I lived in Morocco for eight months on a Fulbright grant, and traveled quite a bit around the country. In Tangier, like many cities I visited in Morocco, it was not advisable to be out alone at night if you were not a male or accompanied by one. Come-ons aloud and whispered, being followed in cars, the occasional grab: none of these are much fun. Matt Gross, as a man traveling alone, perhaps did not think about any of this as none of it happened to him, or perhaps he did not think to ask any of the women he met,” writes Alma Rachel Heckman of Los Angeles.

Though it's a very famous Dublin landmark, my friends and I
found Temple Bar by simply wandering the street

In his second installment of “Getting Lost,” Gross writes about driving around Ireland. One aspect of his solo travel that he focuses on is the loneliness of it. As a seasoned traveler, Gross has developed exceptional friend-making skills. I have those as well. It’s that inner thing that lets you strike up a conversation with the person sitting next to you on the plane, or the bus, or at the bar. That need to connect with another traveler and share your experience with someone as excited to be there as you are.

But there is something to be said about traveling alone. Not being responsible to anyone else or having to go discover something you don’t really care about because the person you’re with wants to see it. But I wrote about that already ...

Getting back to getting lost: “Maybe I was just grazing the surface of Ireland, failing to penetrate to its core, but when the surface is as raw and gorgeous as it is in Kerry, and when you never know when you’ll stumble on a Martine’s or the Calvinists, and when, despite everything that’s happened before, good and bad, you trust the road to take you where it will, sometimes the surface suffices,” Gross writes in “Lost in Ireland.”

Yes, I’m sure that grazing the surface of a country as beautiful as Ireland can be more than enough for someone who can afford to go back time after time. But for someone like me, who needs to take full advantage of every travel opportunity (both due to time and monetary concerns), just grazing the surface often is not enough. Who knows how many more times I’ll be able to go back to a place like Egypt or India, if ever again. For my own, personal travel satisfaction — to alleviate that damn bite as much as possible until it starts itching again — I need to plan out a way to see as much of a city, country and/or continent as I can.

Even Gross, who is trying to get lost on his travels, tacks on to the end of his piece this: “Even if you’re trying to get lost, it’s OK to have some touchstones. And don’t worry, just because you have these addresses doesn’t mean they’ll be easy to find.”

In the end, getting lost in a city can be a blast. You can discover hidden gems that may not be on that map your eyes are glued to otherwise. But remember that your safety comes first. And planning, even if it’s just a basic skeleton of an itinerary, is not necessarily a bad thing. Often, it’s what makes a trip the most worthwhile.

9.18.2010

Easy fasting and yummy remembering

I wish an easy fast to all of my fellow members of the Tribe out there today.

Strange how fasting gave me the idea to write a post on my favorite meals that I've eaten during my travels. Here goes a mild form of masochism. Hope those of you who can eat today enjoy it, and for those of you who can't, I'm very sorry — though, come to think of it, you're probably not reading this on Saturday anyway, because that's not allowed, so enjoy it over your own yummy meal!



Cava sangria and salmon topped with pineapple with a side of fresh vegetables on our first night in Barcelona made for the best meal ever in my European travels.

 

The next day in Barcelona brought a meal constituted of individual pieces bought from the awesome food market off of La Rambla, including a baguette, cheese, lunch meat and tomatoes, all for a whopping 2 Euro per person. The day ended with an enormous seafood paella split between the four of us.

                              

Edam cheese is super duper yummy, especially when you get it from a shop in Edam.


I could have eaten my way through Italy, and practically did ;-). Our trip started in Venice, where I had the best slice of pizza of my life at a hole-in-the-wall little shop in Ghetto Vecchio (the Old Ghetto). Gelato was EVERYWHERE ... this shot was taken in Rome.

                                          

In Dublin there was a lot of liquid nourishment, but this traditional Irish breakfast helped soak up some of that alcohol.


 I loved being in Prague. The effortless beauty of the city and its architecture was a pleasure to explore. As was the food, which reminded me so much of the food I have grown up with. This meat plate was enough to fill up two of us.


French food is renowned for its flavor and yumminess. Even this Parisian deli hot dog, smothered in cheese, and accompanied by delicious pastries held up its reputation.


I think the best meals are ones you create for yourself ... especially when they're made with the freshest produce. This simple but absolutely delicious meal of pasta with pesto chicken and tomatoes and some white wine was the result of a day of shopping at London's Borough Market. I bought the tomatoes, my friend bought the pesto, and we topped it off with some Waitrose pasta and chicken. It was yummy!


During my trip to Egypt, our group took a detour, on camels, to a small Nubian village where we had one of the best meals I have ever had. The delicious meat, potatoes and vegetables were prepared in a traditional Nubian fashion, slowly baked in clay pots in the oven. Seriously, YUMMY!


Eating Indian food feels like an explosion on your tongue. The spices and exotic flavors create a party for your pallet. And it tastes even better when it's the product of your own hard work. Below is a fruit pizza (not something you'd think would taste good, but totally is) from a small restaurant and the fantastical result of a cooking class, both in the little town of Orcha in India.


In Nepal, my tour guide doused his meals in hot sauce because he claimed they were too bland. For me, they were just right. Below is a Nepalese samosa, which was more like a burrito, covered in cheese (which is always OK with me).


Chicago's known for its deep-dish pizza. And rightfully so. The stuff is delicious. Now, I know that as a native New Yorker, uttering that phrase is probably blasphemous, but I'm not saying it's BETTER than my beloved NYC pizza. In my opinion, it's too different to compare. Below is a yummy steak and broccoli stuffed pie from Giordano's.


On my most recent trip to Grand Cayman, my boyfriend cooked a lot in our hotel suite. It was cheaper, and frankly, a lot more delicious than the on-site restaurant's cuisine. However, as food lovers, we absolutely had to try the local delicacy of turtle. And it was delicious. Below is my boyfriend's yummy concoction of chicken in hickory-barbecue sauce combined with peach preserves and broccoli, a meal of turtle steak from what we were told was one of the best restaurants on the island, and a coconut that we devoured at a coconut tasting at our resort.

             



For me, food is such an important part of travel. Experiencing local cuisine is a great way to partake in local culture — and it's yummy to boot!

What are some of your favorite travel meals?

8.26.2010

It’s in the can ...

My friends often gaze at me and ask one, simple question: “How do you find the time and money to travel as much as you do?”

That simple question has a very simple answer — it takes a lot of hard work and dedication to ...

... tuna fish.

That’s right, tuna fish; you have to really, REALLY, REALLY like tuna fish, because that’s all you’ll be eating for several weeks to make up for the money you’ve spent on that latest plane ticket.

But, alas, such is the plight of someone bitten by the travel bug. I would forsake food for travel. Luckily, I LOVE tuna fish ;-).

In all seriousness, it takes a certain finesse to be able to milk every last minute of vacation time you have out of your company so that you can jet off to London for a long weekend, or craft a 10-day vacation out of just 3 days off of work.

Planning around holidays is the first trick. True, ticket prices and hotel stays might be more expensive, but that’s not always the case. If you have a Friday and Monday off for, say Labor Day, try taking two days at the start and two days at the end, so you end up flying out and in during the middle of the week, rather than on the holiday, which usually is much cheaper. If that’s not an option, try searching for destinations that simply are cheaper to get to. Or, for example, do what I did a few years ago and fly OUT of the country on Thanksgiving, when most others are flying IN. True, I missed Thanksgiving dinner, but while my aunt’s turkey is phenomenal, Thanksgiving is not such a big holiday in my family, so it wasn’t all that much of a problem.

Yummy pastries at Portobello market
Street sausage in Prague
The money thing is a bit trickier and I certainly have incurred some credit card debt in my vast attempts at scratching that nagging travel itch. But looking for deals on any site you know of, combined with making friends in a plethora of countries, combined with traveling at odd times throughout the year helps to patch up that hole that’s burning in my wallet. Staying with friends certainly saves a lot of money, and you have to be willing to survive at least a few meals on international street grub, which can be quite tasty.

On the first-class overnight train
to Aswan, Egypt
Also, for certain countries, it makes a lot of sense to book a tour through a travel company. You pay one flat fee at the start and don’t have to worry about booking transportation or accommodations. There are varying levels of trips, ranging from budget to luxury. I opt for the budget trips, though not the very budget trips, and have yet to be disappointed or disgusted with any accommodations or transportation I’ve encountered. I actually would say that I was pleasantly surprised by many of the places I stayed in, in Egypt, India and Nepal. Also, be sure to see if there are any discounts you can take advantage of, such as student discounts or youth discounts — most European railways offer a youth ticket for those under 25 at a significant discount.

In the end, if you’ve truly been bitten, like I have, by the travel bug, you’ll find a way to book that next trip. Whether it means surviving on tuna fish and Wonder bread for a few weeks, calling out “sick” for a couple of days around a weekend or thoroughly planning out each vacation day before the year has even started, you’ll be on that plane going to that exciting, new destination, no matter what — because you can’t imagine life any other way.